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//change the quotes if desired. Add/ delete additional quotes as desired.

quotes[0]='<font face="Verdana, Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif" size="2">Everybody likes to catch big fish, but in reality it is more of a hope than an every trip occurrence.  Poor weather and water conditions, along with hard-fished waters, can stymie even the best anglers.  When things are tough I often pick up a light action spinning outfit spooled with a soft, 4-pound test line such as Trilene XL, tie on a 1/32 to 1/16 oz. Jig and start fishing.  It is amazing what you will catch, even under tough conditions.  Crappies, perch, bluegills, trout, along with bass and walleyes will succumb to this micro-presentation.  And a 2-3 pound gamefish will put up quite a tussle on this light tackle. <i>- by Spence Petros</i></font>'

quotes[1]='<font face="Verdana, Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif" size="2">When "Lindy Rigging" for walleyes or smallmouth bass during summer, I generally start off using a nose-hooked nightcrawler.  The "crawler" is hooked about ½ inch behind the tip, and allowed to string out behind a size 4 to 8-size hook.  A nightcrawler can be moved at a faster speed is advantageous when trying to cover the maximum amount of water to find the fish.  Once a concentration of fish are found, a leech is usually more effective during the warmer months.  It can be fished behind a slip-sinker rig, dressed on a jig, or hung under a slip-float. <i>- by Spence Petros</i></font>'

quotes[2]='<font face="Verdana, Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif" size="2">In recent years I have learned to shorten my lines more and more while speed-trolling with crankbaits.  Instead of commonly running lures 70-100 feet behind the boat with a medium-deep running lure, a deeper diver would be used to cut that distance in half or less.  Shorter lines allow me to follow an erratic contour more effectively, and in some instances, lures swirling around in the turbulence created by the motor seem to be particularly effective.  In warmer weather, short-line trolling is very effective on pike muskies, smallmouth bass, and white bass.  Muskies seem totally undisturbed by a boat passing overhead with a churning motor, no matter what time of year it is.  Late last October we boated 25 muskies on a 5-day trip, with 16 fish over 40 inches.  Most were caught 25 to 40 feet behind the boat in 8-12 feet of water while moving about 4 mph.  And this was just a few weeks before the lake froze over.  During summer I would go even faster, and have a lure or two half that distance behind the boat for these top-of-the-line predators. <i>- by Spence Petros</i></font>'

quotes[3]='<font face="Verdana, Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif" size="2">When trolling larger lures for whatever species, it is important to keep your drag fairly loose.  The way I test the drag for the correct setting is to put the lure out, begin trolling at the desired speed, and pull the rod sharply forward.  If the line slips on the pull, tighten the drag a bit.  Start with the drag looser and work towards tightening it to the perfect setting, which is just tight enough so the line does not slip out on when you rip the rod forward while trolling. <i>- by Spence Petros</i></font>'

quotes[4]='<font face="Verdana, Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif" size="2">To get the most precision and efficiency while trolling, I use a line-counter trolling reel that tells you exactly how much line is out at any given time (South Bend Vanguard, model LCTR-25CP), usually spooled with Berkley FireLine.  If doing a lot of bottom-bumping, a 3-4 foot leader of wire or thicker mono is recommended. <i>- by Spence Petros</i></font>'

quotes[5]='<font face="Verdana, Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif" size="2">Snags are inevitable when trolling crankbaits near or along the bottom, but there are right and wrong ways to attempt to recover a snagged lure.  If using a floating-diving crankbait, the lure will often float up out of the snag if you immediately slow down the boat, quickly put the reel in free-spool, toss some slack back at the lure and jiggle the line.  If this tactic fails to free the lure, make a sharp U-turn and head directly back at the snag.  Keep a little tension on the line, but not much, until you get about 10-15 feet on the other side of the lure.  If you motor to the snag in a route that loops to one side or the other, the line can wrap the snag causing additional problems.  Once in the correct position, tighten the line and give the cord numerous small jerks.  If that fails to free the lure, a steady hard pull will often bend out a hook.  Here is a reason to use one of the new "super lines" while trolling - it gives extra strength without having a thick diameter that cuts down a lure is running depth.  A lure retriever that slides down your line becomes a good option at this point, but it has to be able to slide down over a swivel on a leader (if used), to reach the lure with its hook-tangling chain, or to be able to knock it free by banging it with a weight.  If all else fails and I am using a heavy-test line, especially one of those thin, strong braids that can easily cut into your hand under a lot of pressure, I wrap the line around the body of the baitcasting or trolling reel a few times and use the motor to pull me away from the snag in the opposite direction that it came into the hang.  This is a last-ditch effort that will free the lure or break the line without damaging you. <i>- by Spence Petros</i></font>'

quotes[6]='<font face="Verdana, Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif" size="2">When trolling or casting I usually try to set the hook with a sidewards sweep of the rod.  Some presentations limit this angle of hook-set, but it is done whenever possible.  A sweep of the rod that is somewhat parallel to the surface will give you the best chance of hooking a fish in the corner of the mouth.  A hook can easily penetrate this area, while it would have a much tougher time trying to get through the hard roof of a fish\'s mouth.  And the bigger a fish becomes, the tougher it becomes to put a hook through the top of a fish\'s head.  A low-sweeping hook-set, followed by a rod kept in that low, near surface position during the fight, will curtail a lot of head-wagging surface activity and most jumps.  While this action is exciting to see, it also gives the fish leverage to flip the lure free.  If you really want to boat a particular fish, fight it with your rod tip held low.  If a lot of surface activity turns you on and you were just going to release it anyway, keep the tip above your head and just consider the ones that got off "quick releases". <i>- by Spence Petros</i></font>'

quotes[7]='<font face="Verdana, Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif" size="2">The new thin-diameter, ultra-strong "super lines" can give you problems if not used correctly.  For starters, I almost always put 20-30 yards of mono on my reel before spooling on one of the new lines.  This will prevent the thin and often slick super lines from slipping around on the spool under pressure.  Do not try to join lines of similar pound tests together with a blood knot, the most commonly used knot for joining two lines together of equal or near equal diameter.  Since mono is a lot thicker than fused or braided lines, similar pound tests can not be linked together with this knot.  When using a fused line such as Berkley\'s FireLine, I find that mono about 40% of the strength of the mono I am using is just about right.  Seventeen to 20-pound test mono is used fo rthe backing when using 50-pound test FireLine.  When using the even thinner diameter Gorilla Braid, the backing drops down into the 10-12 pound test range. <i>- by Spence Petros</i></font>'

quotes[8]='<font face="Verdana, Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif" size="2">It is very important to get the super lines on your reels as tightly wound as possible.  You can\'t achieve enough tightness by spooling it on through pinched fingers.  If the line isn\'t packed on tight, it will cut down into itself when playing a big fish or when trying to pull out of a snag.  Then bang!  Something will give on the next good-size fish you hook.  After winding on enough line to fill the reel, I\'ll go outside, tie the line to a solid object and walk away, peeling off line until there are only a few strands left on the reel.  I will then start cranking it back on under just about as much tension as can be applied, almost pulling myself towards where the line is tied.  By packing the line on super-tight, a lot of grief will be avoided, especially if narrow spool baitcasting or trolling reels are used. <i>- by Spence Petros</i></font>'

quotes[9]='<font face="Verdana, Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif" size="2">When a big, heavy lure splashes down on calm, shallower bass water, old bucket-mouth usually darts into the thick cover or moves out over open water.  Under these conditions it\'s best to use a lighter lure that doesn\'t spook the fish.  Bulky plastics such as lizards or jerkworms are excellent choices because they can be cast sufficient distances while using little or no weight.  Other favorite presentations include lightweight top-waters such as thin profile prop baits and the hollow-bodied Snag Proof Skirted Frog.  If the water has a little color, I\'ll also use smaller spinnerbaits.  When any floating or slow-sinking lure hits the water, pause at least 10 seconds before starting the retrieve.  This gives the bass time to come back and investigate the disturbance. <i>- by Spence Petros</i></font>'

quotes[10]='<font face="Verdana, Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif" size="2">Soft plastic lures vary in how hard or soft they are.  When fishing a plastic worm, lizard, etc., "Texas style" (self-weedless), I rig the worm according to the hardness of the plastic.  With harder lures, which are often preferred around heavier cover, the hook tip is pushed through the bait then retracted back into the body.  When using softer lures, the hook is just pushed about halfway into the worm.  These riggings give me the highest percentage of hook-ups and the least amount of hang-ups. <i>- by Spence Petros</i></font>'

quotes[11]='<font face="Verdana, Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif" size="2">When trolling larger crankbaits behind boards or with a long line, I often replace the manufacturer\'s hooks with thinner gauge hooks that will penetrate more easily.  I almost never keep those stainless steel hooks on any lure, replacing them with quality bronze hooks that I generally sharpen.  If a strike occurs while the rod is in a holder, don\'t stop the boat and grab the rod.  Just keep on moving and the fish will usually hook itself.  Then grab the rod. <i>- by Spence Petros</i></font>'

quotes[12]='<font face="Verdana, Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif" size="2">The new low stretch, thin-diameter "super lines" are great for trolling, but will cut more easily than mono when bumping a crankbait across a jagged, rocky bottom.  To solve this problem I usually use a fairly long wire or mono leader to the lure.  A small barrel swivel can be used to connect the leader to the main line, or if you use two lines of fairly similar diameter such as 50-pound test Gorilla Braid and 12 pound test mono, they can be linked with a blood knot. <i>- by Spence Petros</i></font>'

quotes[13]='<font face="Verdana, Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif" size="2">If you have a crankbait that you deem "un-tuneable" because you just can\'t get it to run straight, it still may be saved.  If the lure runs to the left, file the right half of the lip down along the side.  Test the lure and if it still runs left, file some more.  You\'ll reach a point where the lure either runs straight or it\'s completely ruined - but remember, you gave up on it in the first place. <i>- by Spence Petros</i></font>'

quotes[14]='<font face="Verdana, Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif" size="2">With all conditions being equal, I\'ll fish a lure faster in clearer water than I will in water that has more color or stain.  It seems more speed is needed in clear water to trigger a strike, while in off-colored water a little more time is needed for the fish to find the lure. <i>- by Spence Petros</i></font>'

quotes[15]='<font face="Verdana, Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif" size="2">During the daylight hours savvy bass and muskie anglers generally target the wind-blown shores and structures to try for gamefish, yet when night-fishing most of these same anglers fish calmer waters with top-water lures.  Why?  Do the fish from the rough side go all the way across the lake to feed on the calm side of the lake?  They sure don\'t!  Great results can be had at night on the rougher side of the lake by fishing sub-surface lures such as spinnerbaits and crankbaits. <i>- by Spence Petros</i></font>'

quotes[16]='<font face="Verdana, Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif" size="2">One skill the best anglers have is knowing how to recognize good conditions and take full advantage of them, and just as importantly, how to know when a lake is "off" and a move to another place is in order.  A clear lake would probably be super tough under bright calm conditions, yet a nearby dark water lake or river may still offer some excellent fish-catching potential.  If summer action on a clear lake occurs for a very brief period at dawn or dusk, it\'s a good indication that night feeding is occurring.  The best conditions to neutralize a cold front is moving, darker water.  Water temperature can also help a lot, especially during the spring.  If water temperature is 50 degrees, walleyes may have just gotten done spawning and would probably be tough to catch.  Yet on a smaller, faster-to-warm lake a few blocks away, the water temperature in the shallows might be 55 degrees and the bass would be knocking the paint off any crankbait or spinnerbait that\'s run past them.  There are dozens of strategic moves that can be made to increase your odds of catching fish.  Experience and some common sense can help a lot. <i>- by Spence Petros</i></font>'

quotes[17]='<font face="Verdana, Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif" size="2">When night-fishing, pay a lot of attention to the inside edge of the weeds.  This shallower breakline, where the weeds come closest to the shore, is often the key area for night bass action.  This is particularly true on waters where larger predators such as muskies, pike, or walleyes "rule" the deep weed edges.  In darker waters the inside weed edge would commonly start in 2 to 4-foot depths, while in clear lakes this edge may begin at the 6 to 8-foot level. <i>- by Spence Petros</i></font>'

quotes[18]='<font face="Verdana, Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif" size="2">When drifting and casting to cover, the up-wind edge of the cover will almost always be the key holding area for gamefish.  Visible cover is easy to target, but sub-surface cover is trickier to fish correctly.  Polarized glasses are a must to spot a water color change that exposes the cover.  Sometimes the deeper cover can only be spotted under high sun conditions. <i>- by Spence Petros</i></font>'

quotes[19]='<font face="Verdana, Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif" size="2">The fastest growing weeds in a lake often draw early spring fish like a magnet.  The trick is finding them.  The best area to locate early weed beds is on the north side of a lake, particularly where a creek pours warmer water into the lake.  This combination of warm, fertile run-off water and maximum exposure to the spring sun triggers the first weed growth. <i>- by Spence Petros</i></font>'

quotes[20]='<font face="Verdana, Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif" size="2">Mortality rates on poorly handled, caught and released fish increase drastically during the warmer months.  For starters, don\'t grab the fish across the body with a dry hand.  This removes protective body slime, causing the fish to develop a fungus on its body which usually ends up killing the fish.  This protective coating can also be damaged by putting a fish in a dry cotton net, or letting it bounce around in the bottom of the boat.  Keeping a fish in a live well full of warm surface water for a time also cuts down on their chances for survival.  Some species can be "lip-landed", while others can be grabbed across the back with a wet hand while they are still in the water.  Hooks can be removed from bigger fish such as pike or muskies while they are in a coated net held in the water.  I find it hard to watch many television fishing shows and see the constant mishandling of fish.  If you want to eat a few from time to time, that\'s fine - but don\'t toss them back in to die! <i>- by Spence Petros</i></font>'

quotes[21]='<font face="Verdana, Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif" size="2">If you decide to keep a couple fish to eat in warmer weather, whack them on the head and toss them in a cooler with ice.  "Putting them to sleep" is more humane, and it also saves you possible embarrassing moments when someone asks you how they are biting, you give a negative report, and then a fish flops around in the cooler. <i>- by Spence Petros</i></font>'

quotes[22]='<font face="Verdana, Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif" size="2">Sometimes adding a little flash to your presentation will help catch more fish in certain types of lakes.  Many prime Canadian waters have far less pounds of fish per acre than some weed-choked lake near your house.  The difference is that clear, sand-based lakes of the north generally have a lot higher percentage of quality fish, while the shallow, fertile lakes further south usually have huge numbers of bullheads, carp, suckers, bowfin, and other generally undesirable species, plus a wide variety of baitfish.  A bass, pike or walleye has no real problem finding food in these shallower, fertile lakes.  But in the clear lakes forage is tougher to find, so adding a little flash to your presentation is usually a plus.  One style of jig to consider for these waters is one with a prop-type blade on the hook\'s shank.  Examples would be Lindy\'s Li\'l Hummer, and Northland\'s Whistler jigs.  Another way to achieve this fish-attracting flash on a jig is by attaching an L-arm spinner to the jig.  Any seasoned walleye angler knows how effective a "Little Joe" spinner rig (long, heavy-duty, pre-rigged mono leader with a spinner and hook) is when slow-trolling for walleyes in less than 15-foot depths, and a big flashy spoon has produced thens of thousands of big pike.  If hungry fish can see, or be made aware of your presentation from farther away, you\'ll get more strikes. <i>- by Spence Petros</i></font>'

quotes[23]='<font face="Verdana, Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif" size="2">Northerly winds, falling temperatures, and clear skies generally produce the toughest fishing conditions, but certain steps can be taken to lessen the effects of a cold front.  During the coldest portions of the year, head to a warm water discharge.  I\'ve had excellent success all over the country fishing places where warm water was being discharged into a lake or river.  These discharges are usually monitored, and the water is generally clearer and cleaner than the water it pours into.  I\'ve had excellent success fishing discharges in a variety of situations, from catching sea-trout (weakfish) in Florida, to walleyes, white bass, catfish, and smallmouth on the Mississippi River in Minnesota. <i>- by Spence Petros</i></font>'

quotes[24]='<font face="Verdana, Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif" size="2">If a discharge is unavailable in your area, then target moving, and preferably stained water.  A wise choice to fish for would be walleyes, sauger or catfish in a river system.  About the worst pick you can make is largemouth in a shallow, clear water lake.  If you do fish a lake, you\'ll probably find that points have turned off for bass and walleyes.  Fish using points will usually do one of three things after a severe cold front.  They\'ll move from the tip of the point into the corner or inside turn of this structure.  These cupped areas seems to give them a better sense of security - a place where they can duck into.  The fish will often drop down into deeper water where they will be tough to catch.  The best you can hope for is a short spurt of activity, usually taking place later in the day as the weather warms up or otherwise improves.  Fish such as bass and walleyes may also hole up in the thickest cover, such as heavy clumps of weeds, will be in conjunction with an inside turn, giving you an even better chance at contacting some fish.  Don\'t give up if you haven\'t had any action by mid-day.  Sometimes, the best fish activity after a front passes occurs in the warmer afternoon hours. <i>- by Spence Petros</i></font>'

quotes[25]='<font face="Verdana, Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif" size="2">During warm, low light conditions such as early or late in the day, or when the skies are cloudy, you may find that some great looking cover isn\'t holding any fish.  This is usually because the fish are out searching for food under these diluted light conditions that allows them to get closer to their prey more easily.  Reduced light allows them to move through the water with more stealth, so they don\'t have to wait in ambush for something to swim or crawl by.  Once the sun starts beating on the water, predators will often duck back into prime cover where they can be pinpointed and caught - that is, if they haven\'t already eaten too much. <i>- by Spence Petros</i></font>'

quotes[26]='<font face="Verdana, Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif" size="2">Watch out for the birds!  Diving birds such as gulls and terns usually indicate that baitfish are below.  It could be a school of baitfish hanging near the surface, or a bunch of bait that has been driven to the surface by feeding fish.  Many species of gamefish will feed on suspended schools of baitfish - even catfish!  Many times the smaller of the species will be located closer to the surface while the lunkers lurk deeper.  Sometimes white bass will be feeding near the surface while striped bass or walleyes are deeper, picking off the wounded.  Make sure you check high and low. <i>- by Spence Petros</i></font>'

quotes[27]='<font face="Verdana, Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif" size="2">In areas where periodic surface feeding activity quickly erupts then quits before you can really cash in on the action, fish such as white bass, striped bass, largemouth and smallmouth can often be drawn back up to the surface.  I use a cupped-faced surface lure such as a Hula Popper, tie a dropper line of about 18-24 inches to the rear hook eye (take rear hook off) and put a streamer fly or small jig on it.  The rig is cast in the area where the fish have been working, and the lure is popped fast across the surface to duplicate fish chasing bait.  Often this action will draw predators up to get in on the onslaught.  TO avoid tangles when presenting the lure, stop it just before it hits the water so the fly/jig doesn\'t get hung up on the line that runs to the lure.  If you want some real fun tie two jigs to the dropper line.  Double flies will tend to tangle more. <i>- by Spence Petros</i></font>'

quotes[28]='<font face="Verdana, Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif" size="2">When using jigs for bass in darker water lakes, I tend to bulk up my presentation - wider boy, more skirt/arms, bigger trailer, etc.  This tends to give me a more visible profile, it cause the lure to drop slower so a bass can more easily zero in on it, and the lure pushes more water aside as it drops or is jigged, allowing the bass to more easily "feel" it coming through the water as it picks up the low-frequency vibration through its lateral line. <i>- by Spence Petros</i></font>'

quotes[29]='<font face="Verdana, Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif" size="2">Healthy fish almost never quit biting for an extended period of time.  If fishing is slow the fish are probably in patterns that put them out of reach of fishing methods that are commonly being used on those waters.  The fish may be holding deeper or shallower than where most are fishing, or extra fast retrieves may be needed to trigger strikes in hot weather.  A common summer problem, especially on lakes receiving heavy recreational use, is that fish are feeding at night.  This is often indicated by a small window of flash activity very early in the morning or right at dusk.  Another "no fish" excuse can often be solved by trying the open water for suspended fish.  They\'ve got to be feeding somewhere.  Don\'t give up, just fish smarter! <i>- by Spence Petros</i></font>'

quotes[30]='<font face="Verdana, Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif" size="2">The length of your rod handle should correspond with the pound test line being used.  Usually there is no need to have a long handle on an ultra-light rod spooled with 4-pound test line (unless you\'re trying to catch large fish such as steelhead, salmon, etc. on a "noodle rod"), and it doesn\'t make much sense to have a stiff, heavy-duty rod with a short handle that wouldn\'t give you enough leverage to take advantage of the rod\'s power.  As a rule of thumb, about 8 inches of handle is about right when using lines in the 10-20 test range.  When using extra-heavy rods for muskies, pike, catfish, or striped bass, 10-12 inches of handle behind the reel is preferred. <i>- by Spence Petros</i></font>'

quotes[31]='<font face="Verdana, Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif" size="2">Walleyes have been stocked in many fertile bass-type lakes.  In these waters which usually have overall depths of less than 30-40 feet, the walleyes are very weed-oriented.  Right after the spawn (usually not a successful one) the walleyes will head to the first emerging weed bed.  Look to bays along the sun-rich north shores, especially if an incoming creek is pouring warm, fertile water into the bay.  Since cover is at a premium early in the season, the weeds don\'t have to be high, just a foot or two off bottom will suffice.  Lightweight jigs baited with a minnow or leech, slip-bobbers if the water is clear and the fish are spooky, or crankbaits if the walleyes are aggressive, are recommended presentations. <i>- by Spence Petros</i></font>'

quotes[32]='<font face="Verdana, Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif" size="2">When ice-fishing for panfish, pre-rig several extra rods in the warm comfort of your home.  Cold fingers, gossamer-thin lines, and tiny eyelets (along with eyes that get worse with age) can cause some serious re-rigging problems, especially when excited in the middle of some hot fishing action.  If the fish turn on during the last half-hour of light, which is pretty common, poor visibility just adds to the problem.  Just toss the messed up rod aside and grab a fresh one. <i>- by Spence Petros</i></font>'

quotes[33]='<font face="Verdana, Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif" size="2">A good ice-fishing trick is to lay a rod across the opening of a 5-gallon pail and let the line hang straight down into the water.  Have a float dangling about a foot above the ice.  It will catch wind, causing the line to dance around the hole more, and giving the lure more movement.  When a bite occurs, the swinging float will stop as the fish pulls the line taut.  This can also be seen from quite a distance away. <i>- by Spence Petros</i></font>'

quotes[34]='<font face="Verdana, Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif" size="2">Short spinning rods with extra-soft tips are a necessity when ice fishing with lines in the 1-2 pound test range.  This extra flex lets you set the hook without popping the line, and helps in the battle with a larger fish.  A couple of great rod series that are priced right are South Bend\'s Mini Mite and Micro Lite series. <i>- by Spence Petros</i></font>'

quotes[35]='<font face="Verdana, Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif" size="2">Heavy footsteps along a bank will often send fish scurrying for cover.  Proceed slowly when scouting or fishing a section of river or lake bank, and gently place your feet down.  While walking on higher positions along a dike or bank, I\'ve seen many fish scared off by vibrations caused by a fairly slow walk.  If I hadn\'t seen them bolt with my own eyes I would never have believed how sensitive they were to an angler\'s approach. <i>- by Spence Petros</i></font>'

quotes[36]='<font face="Verdana, Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif" size="2">During warming trends in colder weather, cover that absorbs and retains heat will often draw gamefish.  The wooden supports of a pier, fallen trees, stumps and rip=rap banks are known hot spots when pounded by the direct rays of the sun, but also look for large, near-the-surface, darker boulders or beaver huts.  I\'ve even had excellent ice fishing results next to muskrat mounds.  But be careful because the ice directly adjacent is usually thinner than ice several feet away because of the heat that is generated by the mound. <i>- by Spence Petros</i></font>'

quotes[37]='<font face="Verdana, Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif" size="2">Darker water will almost always be slightly warmer than clearer water in the same lake.  Water becomes "stained" because billions of tiny particles floating around in it.  These particles retain heat, thus making stained water slightly warmer and less likely to cool down as quickly as clearer water. <i>- by Spence Petros</i></font>'

quotes[38]='<font face="Verdana, Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif" size="2">A sudden heavy rain that pours badly stained or muddy waters into a clearer lake can hamper a gamefish\'s ability to see its prey.  Fish in clearer water that are used to feeding by sight can be aided by using the brightest color possible - bright orange.  I\'ve used blaze orange on plastic worms for bass, spinner blades for pike and muskies, jigs for crappies and walleyes, and on crankbaits for virtually all game fish species.  "Hunters orange" is the most visible color for us to see, and it shows up as well underwater.  Try various colors just under the surface in muddy water and you\'ll see what shows up best. <i>- by Spence Petros</i></font>'

quotes[39]='<font face="Verdana, Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif" size="2">When approaching a spot with your boat head directly toward it, then kill the motor and move in with the electric motor.  Many anglers roar into an area and turn parallel to shore, sending waves crashing into the area they plan to fish.  The direct approach will send the waves to the side, away from the targeted area. <i>- by Spence Petros</i></font>'

quotes[40]='<font face="Verdana, Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif" size="2">After a spot stops producing fish on a certain lure, change colors.  Often a similar lure in a different color pattern will trigger a few extra fish. <i>- by Spence Petros</i></font>'

quotes[41]='<font face="Verdana, Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif" size="2">A "jump lure" should be tried before leaving when working a spot for bass, walleyes, pike or striped bass, even if fish have already been caught on slower-moving presentations or live bait.  A heavier jig, spoon or blade bait sharply hopped along the bottom will often trigger strikes from fish that ignore the other presentations. <i>- by Spence Petros</i></font>'

quotes[42]='<font face="Verdana, Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif" size="2">Anglers tend to retrieve top-water lures that have front and rear propellers with short jerks, or with a steady retrieve while the rod tip is held at waist level or higher.  Hearing the fish-attracting whirling splashes this lure creates is part of the fun of using a propped bait, but bigger bass, muskies and pike can often be more frequently caught with a lesser used presentation-retrieving the lure at a slow to medium speed with the rod tip held within a foot of the surface.  This prevents the blade from actually breaking the surface, which sends sound, vibrations and flash into the air where it doesn\'t do the angler any good.  A propped lure retrieved with the rod tip low also may appear as a small animal swimming across the water.  Whatever the reason - this tactic produces bigger fish! <i>- by Spence Petros</i></font>'

quotes[43]='<font face="Verdana, Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif" size="2">Small ice-fishing spoons baited with a grub, a piece of worm, or small sliver of plastic are standard panfish fare under frozen waters, but they are also deadly during warmer weather.  Try them suspended under a super-sensitive float such as a Thill Mini-Shy Bite.  And for accurate placement in and around cover in shallower water (under 6 feet) present them with a 16 to 20-foot-long, telescopic rod such as South Bend\'s Sunny Day series.  You\'ll be amazed at how many more sunfish (bream), crappies, and other panfish you\'ll catch. <i>- by Spence Petros</i></font>'

quotes[44]='<font face="Verdana, Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif" size="2">When fishing from shore extra long casts are often needed to reach the fish or to get beyond other anglers into "virgin waters\'.  Longer rods in the 9 to 12-foot range will help you achieve extra distance.  Match them up with larger spinning reels that have a taped, longer (long cast type) spool.  Fill the reel to within a 1/16 inch of the rim with a soft monofilament line.  It won\'t slap your guides as much as stiffer line.  I prefer Trilene XL (extra limp) or Ultra Thin. <i>- by Spence Petros</i></font>'

quotes[45]='<font face="Verdana, Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif" size="2">Wooden jerkbaits used for muskies and pike may vary greatly in how they hold in the water between pulls.  Wood that is less dense usually rises toward the surface, while denser wood lures may suspend or slowly sink.  I generally catch most of my fish on lures that can be kept right in the fishes\' face, not rising toward the surface.  I often put extra weight in my jerkbaits to keep them down.  To find the correct spot to place the weight, balance a horizontally-held jerkbait perpendicularly across your index finger.  It\'s at that balance point, underneath the lure, that the weight should be inserted.  Drill out a hole, leaving the entrance smaller than the hole inside, and pour in melted lead.  IN an "emergency situation" in a boat, I\'ve dug out a hole with a Phillips screwdriver, pounded a 1/16 or 1/8 ounce size bullet-shaped slip sinker into the hole and cemented it with a little Super Glue! <i>- by Spence Petros</i></font>'

quotes[46]='<font face="Verdana, Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif" size="2">When fishing pressured waters, a good strategy is to search out secondary spots that are harder to recognize.  Scattered, deeper rocks off a rip-rap bank, lower-growing ridges, fingers or tiny rises off major easy-to-find structures are a few of the places I\'ll seek.  When fishing heavy cover in these same waters, lure placement into the toughest-to-reach section of the cover is often the answer to success.  Don\'t overlook the shoreline-facing portion of the cover.  On visible cover the deep edge and sides are usually "pounded to death". <i>- by Spence Petros</i></font>'

quotes[47]='<font face="Verdana, Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif" size="2">Most anglers work along the edges and over the tops of weed beds or try to gently slide their lures through the vegetation.  While those tactics generally work best, try using the weeds to trigger a strike.  I\'ll often snap a jig free from the vegetation, intentionally rip a slim, tight-wiggling crankbait through deep fringe weeds, or explode a jerkbait through erratic, sunken weed tops.  Often this will trigger a response from a fish that just watched a slower-moving presentation quietly glide past.  Don\'t be afraid to try this tactic to wake up the fish on a calm, sunny day. <i>- by Spence Petros</i></font>'

quotes[48]='<font face="Verdana, Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif" size="2">A willow-bladed lure will pick up less weeds than rounder-type Colorado or Indian style blades.  When retrieving a spinnerbait through clinging, emergent or submergent vegetation, a longer, slimmer willow-leaf blade rotates closer to its axis and flops from side to side, generally bouncing off vegetation.  Round blades spin around the shaft rather than flop around, and pick up a lot more weeds around the swivel that connects the blade to the wire arm.  Make sure any spinnerbait is "tuned" (wire arm lined up straight with hook) to minimize hang-ups. <i>- by Spence Petros</i></font>'

quotes[49]='<font face="Verdana, Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif" size="2">When probing new waters from the bank, there are several ways to determine what depths your casts are landing in.  The first, the "countdown method", involves using a sinking lure such as a jig, spinnerbait, or countdown-type crankbait.  After the lure hits the water, start counting and watch your line.  When the lure hits bottom, the line will go slack.  Heavier lures sink about a foot per second, but that really doesn\'t matter too much.  Deeper waters and drop-offs will be noted as an increase in your drop count.  Slip floats can also tell the shoreline angler the depth.  Weight a stand-up style float, set a depth level and cast out.  It\'s best to start a little shallower (5-6 feet), make a long cast and slowly reel in.  The float won\'t stand up any more once the weight brushes the bottom. <i>- by Spence Petros</i></font>'

quotes[50]='<font face="Verdana, Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif" size="2">Top anglers are astute line-watchers.  They don\'t just concentrate on line movement when fishing jig-type lures, but when using faster-moving lures as well.  A gamefish will often hit a crankbait or spinnerbait from the side and come slightly towards the angler.  A strike isn\'t felt but sideways movement of the line may be noted.  Be alert at all times. <i>- by Spence Petros</i></font>'

quotes[51]='<font face="Verdana, Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif" size="2">When fishing spinnerbait for muskies and pike, I often put on a trailer hook and point it downward if the cover isn\'t too bad.  This gives me an excellent chance to drive a hook into these predators\' softer, lower jaws - a far easier task than trying to penetrate the much tougher upper mouth. <i>- by Spence Petros</i></font>'

quotes[52]='<font face="Verdana, Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif" size="2">Don\'t let a big lake scare you, all of it doesn\'t have to be fished to be successful.  You may be capable of working out a hundred acres of water a day or a thousand, so pick the areas that give you the best opportunity.  You generally have a lot better chance for success if you fish sections that have 20-50 foot maximum depths and off-colored water, than spots bordering or in deeper, clearer water.  In spring look for early-to-warm areas such as darker shallower bottoms, inlets, calmer waters receiving direct sunlight, canals or feeder creeks.  Weedlines will be shallower in darker areas and fish more accessible.  If you want to challenge the clearer areas, do it early or late in the day or under overcast conditions. <i>- by Spence Petros</i></font>'

quotes[53]='<font face="Verdana, Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif" size="2">As water levels rise, gamefish tend to move shore-ward.  Rising water levels, for the most part, also mean more stain or color in the water, another factor that pulls fish up.  Wood or weeds in two feet of water may hold few, if any larger fish.  But rising water levels can change things dramatically, making that so-so, 2-foot deep cover now several feet deeper and much more desirable for larger gamefish. <i>- by Spence Petros</i></font>'

quotes[54]='<font face="Verdana, Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif" size="2">A good rule of thumb is to fish deeper and use smaller lures in clear water I will also frequently work a crankbait, spinnerbait or topwater lure faster in clear water than I would in stained waters.  Fish need less time to locate a lure in clear water, plus a faster retrieve doesn\'t give them as much time to "look something over". <i>- by Spence Petros</i></font>'

quotes[55]='<font face="Verdana, Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif" size="2">Weedless spoons such as Johnson Silver Minnow are often more productive when a plastic or pork trailer is put on them.  But the type of trailer used can affect the lure\'s action and drop rate.  The longer the trailer the more drag it will create in the water, slowing down the lure\'s side-to-side wiggle.  Savvy anglers often vary trailer length to alter the lure\'s action.  A chunky wider trailer such as a pork or plastic frog can help slow down a spoon\'s sink rate, plus the width it adds will help the spoon stay on or near the surface at the slowest possible speeds. <i>- by Spence Petros</i></font>'

quotes[56]='<font face="Verdana, Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif" size="2">I\'ll often add a swirltail type grub on the back of my spinnerbait.  This adds extra action, allows me to "color contrast" against the skirt, and if I\'m using a deep, slow technique, fish tend to hold onto a grub-baited lure longer, especially if it\'s scented like the Berkley Power Baits.  Adding a small 2 to 3 grub to a larger 1 to 2-ounce spinnerbait when fishing for muskies or pike will also produce extra bonus bass or walleyes.  It seems these smaller gamefish often ignore the big flashing blades and go for the small grub.  Take the grub off and you\'ll catch much less smaller fish.  While some hard-core muskie anglers view all other fish as just bait, it\'s fun to break up the day with a few extra strikes, especially if the thought of pan-fried walleyes activate your taste buds. <i>- by Spence Petros</i></font>'

quotes[57]='<font face="Verdana, Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif" size="2">Hollow-bodied soft plastic frogs, such as those made by Snag Proof, are favorite lures of mine for fishing heavy, surface-blanketing cover.  But to hook the highest percentage of strikes, delay your hook-set a few seconds before setting the hook.  This gives a bass a chance to turn, which gives you an excellent opportunity to hook it in the side of the mouth. <i>- by Spence Petros</i></font>'

quotes[58]='<font face="Verdana, Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif" size="2">While "line-watching" and retrieving a lighter weight or slower-moving lure during windy conditions, I often hold my rod tip just inches above the water and a little to the side to create a slight angle.  This adjustment allows me to read the line for a strike, and eliminates the big bow the wind could cause.  Under certain conditions with specific lures, such as using a lighter jig in deeper water, the rod is often lifted a bit to create a slightly bigger bow that makes line watching a little easier. <i>- by Spence Petros</i></font>'

quotes[59]='<font face="Verdana, Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif" size="2">I always tie a jig directly to my line.  No snaps, no swivel, -direct, even when using a wire leader.  When using a wire leader the jig is attached with a haywire twist.  Any good knot book, such as Bob McNally\'s "Fishermen\'s Knots, Rigs, And How To Use Them", can show you how to tie a haywire twist.  I feel more confident with the direct tie approach, plus it doesn\'t pick up as much debris. <i>- by Spence Petros</i></font>'

quotes[60]='<font face="Verdana, Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif" size="2">Most floating-diving crankbaits will rise to the surface when your retrieve is halted.  But sometimes its better for your lure to stay right at the fishes\' eye level, particularly if the fish is in a non-chasing mode due to cold water or adverse weather conditions.  Some companies make neutrally buoyant lures that are perfect for these conditions. <i>- by Spence Petros</i></font>'

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